We aim to list here the various tasks required to fully install and implement Dinghy Derrick with a realistic assessment of the skill base required.
Fitting the electrical system
Installation of Dinghy Derrick (D.D) can be a 'do-it-yourself' level project for people with good practical skills, but DIY electrical installations are rarely as elegant and neat as professional jobs, so we would urge a little more attention to detail.
Fitting the transom bracket
The issues concerning mounting onto the transom are dealt with on a separate page TRANSOM MOUNTING ISSUES. The work for fitter involves taking the Transom Plate, aligning it at the correct point and using a fine pencil through the four square holes to mark the drilling positions on the hull. There is a degree of tolerance built into the system.
Fixing the rigging
This will require the use of either a bosun's chair, or mast steps, or the hire of a cherry picker platform. The requirement is to access the masthead and/or the upper reaches of the backstay. Here we fit the ARK tang plates supporting a pulley block, and each halyard has to be tied off and the return loop threaded through a pulley block. The amount of work required depends on whether the yacht in question has unused sheaves in the masthead, or unused holes on the masthead plate or requires local work. The layout is 2:1 normally but for heavyweight loads (say 95-130kgs) using a 3:1 gives a smoother action.
Fitting the windlass
The most difficult part of the operation is the decision as to where to mount the windlass and to plan a clean and square-on feed of the halyard onto the windlass drum. There are clear instructions as to how to achieve this, but it will require thought and planning. The preferred positions are bolted down on the forward deck alongside the mast base, or in a stern locker.
Fixing the pushpit coupling blocks
The block is made from an engineering plastic, ultraviolet resistant and also acts as a galvanic isolator so Dinghy Derrick is outside of the yacht's earthing system. The block comes with a drop nose pin so as the track arm approaches the pushpit top rail the pin is inserted. The blocks are attached to each side of the pushpit using a special clamp we provide.